But Really:

I think I love surfing. Or rather, trying to surf. It’s terrifying and exhilarating and makes me feel like who you are is constantly shifting, and no matter who you think you are, or what you are capable of doing, you can always do else. Or more. Or you can at least always try.  So just stay tuned for the next installment of I am a Surfer now? which will most likely be blogged from the Gut of a massive shark. Where hopefully there is wireless. Inside of said shark.

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